Dark Romanticism is how Frida Giannini described the latest Gucci Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection. The creative director of one of the most glamorous designer labels flaunted the dark yet sensual collection at the opening of Milan’s Fashion week.
Full of melancholic colours, this uber chic ready-to-wear collection will have fashion barons from all over the world yearning for this high lux look with elements of fur, silk, velvet and dresses of gleaming feathers and chiffon inlaid with mink.
This is a powerfully enchanting collection showcasing Gucci’s signature look of the 1970s with billowing chiffon dresses and sheer pussy bow blouses mixed with Giannini’s own translation of the label including hard military lines reminiscent of the second World War and a touch of equestrian sumptuousness. Channeling a dark glamour that resembled something out of Bram Stoker’s Dracula or Tim Burton’s Sleepy Hallow, there was an impressive richness of fabrics contrasting between sheer fabrics, furs and an abundance of velvet used on softly belted velvet smoking jackets and long skirts split at the back.
Giannini, whilst in an equestrians mood, included Gucci’s signature leather riding boots in flat styles and riding trousers that flounced wide over each thigh. Another favourite spotted on the runway besides the 1970s was a mix of the 1940s, including pencil skirts and full length column dresses, and the Pre-Raphaelite era with velvet lean dresses, delicate waistbands and cinched silhouettes.
Unlike most fashion shows this year that featured bright colors and patterns , Gucci’s designers came up with something incredibly different by creating a powerful collection that was dominated mostly by murky colours of black, shades of green, burgundy and blue with haunted beauties walking down the runway in roughly tied back Pre-Raphaelite hair, deathly makeup and velvet crushed lips.
Indiana Holley 